Café LULUc’s airy open space instantly cues Parisian bistro and ropes in a full range of Brooklyn gentrifiers. Empty nesters tuck into generous portions of steak frites while shaggy-haired slackers suck down bargain-priced bottles of wine. Chalk up the restaurant’s enduring popularity to classics like coq au vin and fennel-laden mussels, both richer and more ample than humble price tags might suggest. Renowned as a top local hangover remedy, the brunch here attracts long lines of slouching characters yearning for pancakes and scallion scrambles. Off hours, the scene is that of a comfortable neighborhood hang: The magazine racks are stuffed with periodicals, the leafy backyard ideal for canoodling. When fuel prices and exchange rates put a damper on travel plans, versatile Café LULUc ably serves as a quick trip to a continental state of mind.