Wolodymyr Darmochwal does not sound like the name behind a classic American burger, but Darmochwal, a former Ukrainian communal farm director, started the candy store that evolved into Veselka. The burger itself is a renowned late-night staple, popular among partiers re-fortifying after a night on the E.V. The patty is pre-shaped, mid-sized and dense, with grill marks providing a hint of crust and plenty of charcoal flavor. An excellent sesame bun caps the meat, its porous dough absorbing the excess juice. Fries are halfway between French and steak and not as impressive as their yam brethren, which feature supple centers and a crisp skin. The full menu, served 24/7, is as catholic as any New York diner’s. Fresh ingredients mark the soups, salads, and sandwiches. Handmade Ukrainian pierogi and blintzes go down equally well with coffee at brunch and Obolon and Slavtich beers in the wee hours. Multiple storefront expansions have resulted in an airy space. A front take-out stand passes into a counter backed by holdover wood paneling and a retro Coca-Cola clock. Full windows in the mural-decked main dining space overlook pleasant sidewalk seating. It’s a long way from the original Eastern European roots, but then so is the East Village.