Milan

The Heir to Bill Cunningham?

The Sartorialist.
The Sartorialist.

When Scott Schuman, the amateur photographer who runs the fashion blog The Sartorialist, first attem  read more »

A Kiss is Still a Kiss... Still

"Despite the awkwardness, the cheek, or social, kiss is displacing the handshake, once the customary greeting in American social and business circles. It may be a growing Latin influence, an aping of European manners, the influx of women in the workplace or just a breakdown of formality: no one seems to know. It's not just celebrities smacking the air or diplomats puckering up with the European style double kiss or Soprano family wannabees mimicking a sign of forced fealty." – Better Not Miss the Buss, by Elizabeth Olson, The New York Times, April 6, 2006.

"By the end of Fashion Week yesterday, how many disdainful, insincere and indifferent greetings had been exchanged? Numberless. If the air kiss can be blamed on the hostesses of high society, the adoption of the double-kiss by non-European New Yorkers is fashion's fault. Some knowledgeable fashion sources trace the spread of the double to the mid-to-late-1980's and Milan, whose shows became a must for North American buyers and editors enthralled by Italian designers like Armani and Versace. The French do it, too, but perhaps with a Gallic frost that was never quite as contagious as the Mediterranean version." – Hug-Hug, Kiss-Kiss: It's a Jungle Out There, by Rick Marin, The New York Times, September 19, 1999.

Dubai Riots Threaten Armani's Hotel

dubai.jpg
Giorgio at the Dubai site. (From Haute Living).
It seems like everyone is talking about Dubai these days, whether it is over ports or as an emerging hub of global commerce.

But today's riots at the construction site of what is to be the world's tallest tower could threaten Giorgio Armani's 172-room luxury hotel, which will be located in the building.

The strikes and riots by Al Naboodah workers marred what otherwise appeared to be smooth construction of the Burj Dubai, which is to be a spire-shaped, stainless-steel-skinned tower expected to soar far beyond 100 stories.

Here's what Mr. Armani told Haute Living in the magazine's cover story this month, regarding the ambitious project.

“Because Dubai is undoubtedly a new international crossroads for emerging trends, styles, cultures,” he says, “it is already changing the global scenario, giving a new reference point to the international public, alongside New York, London, Paris, Tokyo and Milan, of course — my city.”

Already, there has reportedly been $1 million worth of damage. Hopefully, things will calm down for Mr. Armani.  read more »

- Michael Calderone

In Today's Paper: Fashion And Its Miscontents

It's Fashion Wake! From Women's Wear Daily to Cathy Horyn, the critics of fashion have for some time now found themselves unwilling to get in the slightest bit worked up. And all the rah-rah happy-club everything-is-pretty baloney surrounding the shows ill-serves the designers. Isn't there a point, after all, to the dialogue between critics and artists and consumers?

The Transom had a lovely chat yesterday with John Fairchild, the 78-year-old former publisher of WWD. (He has more to say in the story.) He was at The Ritz in Paris. ("I'm retired. I'm taking it easy," he said, by explanation of his whereabouts. Awesome.) Given the stentorian past of the publication, it was surprising to hear him say that perhaps the fashion press should just become, essentially, magalogs.

"I think the ideal situation," Mr. Fairchild said, "is that the consumer should see as many beautiful pictures of the clothes that the press can print, and then they can buy them. They don't read all the blah blah! The only people who read the reviews are the designers and the people who write the reviews. You think some lady, who's about to spend eight thousand dollars, who's about to buy the dress, will read the reviews?"

Hmm. We suppose she wouldn't.

After New York's fashion week belches to completion on Friday, well, it's off to London on September 18th, then Milan on September 24th, and Paris on October 2nd. Sheesh!

"You've gotta remember," Mr. Fairchild said, "that, until the Europeans show, what you're seeing now could change quickly. What you're seeing on the runway may never appear. It might never appear on the scene. I mean, it could! But the thing is, I always remember—who knows what's going to sell? Who knows? No one knows! It's the lady who buys the clothes. She is the ultimate. The rest is blah blah!"  read more »

— Choire Sicha

Salonières at the Jewish Museum Strike Up a Conversation on Culture

"A little bit of this, a little bit of that-it's all very interesting, but you need weeks to go thro  read more »

Angels

After wandering in the urban wilderness for more than 20 years, New York Law School students finally  read more »

Ciao, Paolo! Donald's Matchmaker Goes From Pin-Ups to Penthouses

Paolo Zampolli, a boldface name familiar to any casual reader of Page Six, did some soul-searching l  read more »

Italian Futurism, Avant-Garde Spasm, Predicted Fascism

Italian Futurism-the Futurism now on display in the Guggenheim's oddly organized Boccioni's Materia:  read more »

Moving, Disturbing Lilja 4-Ever Soars to the Heavens

Lukas Moodysson's Lilja 4-Ever , from his own screenplay, in Russian and Swedish with English subtit  read more »

Muu-Muu to Miu Miu: I Dream Of A Glamorama Shrink

My new therapist, Chiarna, has a kind of mid-90's gallery-owner minimalist look going on: frenzied b  read more »

Gianfranco Ferré and the Architecture of Design

Gianfranco Ferré was scheduled for a brief tour of some of the art galleries in Chelsea.  read more »