One if by Land
Darling, Would You Marry … Wait, Is That a Sunchoke Mousse?

James Hamilton
An Australian surfer-turned-chef introduces a new wave of dishes at an old romantic standby.
Before I sat down to dinner at the refurbished One if by Land, Two if by Sea, I had a drink by the fireplace in front of the bar. A pianist was tinkling away at Chopin, and two couples, ensconced in leather armchairs, sipped glasses of Champagne. A handsome young Japanese man, dressed in a dark suit and blue striped tie, strode through the front door and sat down on a bar stool. He declined the bartender’s offer of a drink; instead he consulted his watch and pulled out a book. read more »







